It was in my own home, so I got to see them at 7+ years later. I framed my basement with 2x3s (2x4 top and base plates) on all walls except those with doors, where I used 2x4s. Have always use 2X4's 24 on center for walls in basement. I ripped out the wood paneling on the basement wall that is partially below grade and discovered that the framing was made of 1x3 boards nailed to the concrete. If it were me I would do the 2" foam glued to the wall seams taped, double or triple up the 2" foam on the rim joist with edges sealed with expanding foam and 2x3 (or full 2x4 if you don't care about the loss of an extra 1") studs on top of the 2" foam on the walls… You should frame walls at least with 2x4s and use at least R 11 or whatever minimal fiberglass insulation your local code requires 5. My plan as of now is to use the 2" on perimeter of basement wall. I would say that the wall is not cold to the touch behind that furnace. Not only that it’s going to rot the wood and it is also going to weaken the structure. I've been using 2x3's in my basement remodel as furring strips on the concrete walls. Its on sale at Menards and I can get 650 sq ft worth for $125 and $105 after mail in rebate. PL 300 Foamboard Adhesive. would require more R-value to make-up for the lost heat due to the cavity insulation. You can't frame out in 1x3 especially in a basement. I have already glued 2.5 inch rigid foam insulation to the concrete walls. Unfaced fiberglass batts can be installed in the frame wall for additional insulation. I agree that 2x4's are the std for these walls, but I've used 2x3's with a 1x6 horizontal stiff leg before, with excellent results. This way, I can be prepared. Add three studs for each 90-degree corner. The 2" XPS is better from a moisture standpoint than adding cavity batt insulation in front also. We were going to use 2x2's but since we were shooting them we went with the 2x3 just to make sure the lumber wouldn't split. Re: 2x3 lumber instead of 2x4 to frame basement. "“a 2x4 wall on the interior side of the foam insulation and fill the stud bays with fiberglass batts. I'm also thinking rigid foam and 2x4 framing, but using Roxul for cavity insulation. You won't have any issues with 2x3s (other than having to install shallow electrical boxes in some cases). Got them for $24.95 a piece. My rough area is 13'-4" x 39' -5" and is concrete block. This will cover everything. I purchased 21 2" XPS boards. What is your plan for flooring/sub flooring? A piece of surfaced (sanded smooth) 2x4 lumber actually measures 1½ inches thick and 3½ inches wide. Introduction Turn your unfinished basement into beautiful, functional living space. The joints between sheets of insulation should be sealed with tape or fiberglass mesh and mastic. So we need to get some in before the winter. On the other side of the bearing wall is the furnace. This approach is less risky than installing fiberglass directly against the concrete. Hi Shannon. If you look closely, you can see the cement wall and the 2×4 studs against the cement wall. Other route could or would be using a 2" XPS with 2x3 framing and NO batt insulation in wall. However, you begin to lose some stability at the shelving gets taller, so I would advise attaching the unit to the wall and also using 2x4's instead of 2x3's for increased strength. I specifically chose 2x3 studs because they're plenty strong for this kind of shelving unit, while being a little less expensive than regular 2x4 studs, and a little lighter … Hi Shannon. Nice, I have a walk out basement that I'd like to finish someday too. Noticed I said you’re going to WANT these things. Non-bearing walls may be constructed of 2X4 or 2X3 studs spaced a maximum of 24 inches on center, or with 2X4 flat studs (long dimension of the stud parallel to the wall) spaced a maximum of 16 inches on center. But either way, being safe than sorry is good with me. There are two ways to frame a wall: you can either nail the top and bottom plates, then nail the studs in between, or build each section on the floor and then raise and nail it into place. JavaScript is disabled. A 4" Type-VIII (1.25 lbs per cubic foot nominal density) roofing EPS would meet/beat the current IRC prescriptive R15 continuous insulation without using ANY fiber fluff between metal studs, and you could go with a 2x3 rather than 2x4. 6 mil poly staple to the sill plate to hang down and cover the concrete wall . The f.b. I have the concrete load bearing wall that I am unsure what I am doing with. A R 19 block of insulation up on the sill plate in each joist space .R 13 insulation paper to the room in … Yes, our free framing calculator computes the number of studs for you, but why do we use the 2x4 system at all? Wall Framing – Wood or metal studs may be used. I'm interested in the aggrevation as maybe that will come down the road where I wish I had used all 2x4s. Another option is to install one inch of XPS and then build a 2X3 or 2X4 frame wall just interior to the XPS. If your basement floor is not level (which most basement floors aren’t), building on the floor will be a challenge. As long as the 2x3s are placed against a solid wall, such as concrete or concrete block they will be sufficient. I have the furnace on opposite side of wall too. The inner concrete bearing wall is cold to the touch but my thoughts were that it is cold because its cold in the basement. You can also piece 2x4s (for example use two 8 foot long 2x4s instead of a 16 footer) - just make sure you adequately attach to studs in wall. Basement framing. 4) Construction-strength adhesive. Add two studs for each wall intersection (where another wall abuts the wall you are estimating). 2x4 stands for a system using 2-inch-by-4-inch studs made out of wood, or steel. If you expect the floor to get wet frequently (wet basement or garage floor), you can seal the bottoms of all uprights before assembly with a good waterproofing, and also install the bottom shelf slightly off the floor. 2x4 walls. Learn how to insulate and frame the walls and ceilings, build soffits, frame partition walls and frame around obstructions. The walls ended up perfectly flat, & stayed that way. Likewise, how many 2x4 Do I need calculator? I would then frame a 2x4 wall against and use batt insulation. As long as the 2x3s are placed against a solid wall, such as concrete or concrete block they will be sufficient. There was no insulation on the walls, just bare concrete. Anyway, the 2" will go up and will frame 2x4 over it. … P/T bottom plate. The width of a 1x3 makes it unuseable for most purposes - no room for nailing or mistakes. Basement walls take on handsome Art Deco-style using ordinary lumber--4x8 plywood sheets of rotary-sawn maple hardwood and solid poplar 2x3 battens. I understand that the XPS should be glued. For a basement wall, which is not bearing any weight, I would recommend the 2x4's (some even use 2x3's) set on 16 in centers and build the wall out from the cement blocks, so that you can still use the 6 in insulation. Nail size is more important than you might think when framing interior walls. You’ll need help with holding the wood together as you start to secure it, and you’ll need someone to help lift the wall into place. How to Frame a Basement Wall the Traditional Framing Way Step 1: Insulate the Concrete Wall. What about using 2x3's instead to save an inch? Come join the discussion about tools, projects, builds, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more! I am in the process of insulating and framing my basement. Unfaced fiberglass batts can be installed in the frame wall … I'm leaning towards no XPS with a 1/2 gap between 2x4 and wall and then just using R15 roxul. I’m not kidding. So, you need insulation to protect your investment. They can also help design DIY partition walls or other parts of simple metal structures. Concrete walls may have a purpose, but beauty and warmth aren't it. Worked great and there was enough space between 2x and drywall to run conduit through the walls. Post by Saxe Point » Wed Aug 07, 2013 4:57 am. If you absolutely need 4" of insulation, you can also put 2X3s an inch away from the concrete; 2X4s would just conduct more heat and short-circuit the insulation anyway. Major utility has been in furring out basement walls for insulation, with some non-load-bearing use--just pulled down the plaster in the bathroom on a late '60s house and found that the studs on the non-load-bearing wall were 2x3 while the ones on the adjacent load-bearing wall were 2x4. By code, 2x3's may be used for this purpose if the wall is no taller than 10 … These details are shown in Figure 1. by Shannon » Wed Aug 07, 2013 7:27 am, Post Think of the framing as a house built with 2x4 walls. Masonry walls like concrete tend to be damp, dreary and unpleasant. my biggest peeve is that you are drilling tons of holes in your foundation. Concrete walls may have a purpose, but beauty and warmth aren't it. You will see mold growth everywhere. No, the 2x3's should work just fine for you. In my opinion you don't have to go overboard insulating basement walls as you are only insulating against 50-55* (ground temperature) exterior. Not sure if this is a good idea or not. My inspector says no vapor barrier. If you absolutely need 4" of insulation, you can also put 2X3s an inch away from the concrete; 2X4s … Ducts are often run parallel to a wall, (as shown below), when this happens you may install a 2x2 or 2x4 along the wall studs. I did forget to mention that the wall on the right hand side of those pictures is exposed. Electrician I spoke with says that 2x3's would live enough room for wiring, outlets etc. Insulating walls framed with 2x3's. I used R-13 Insulation just fine for the walls. Free-standing walls would be sturdier out of 2x4s. I am in the process of doing a basement finish. My new home has half the walls in the basement as 2x3's with insulation. However, I needed a pressure treated bottom plate (2X4 board) for all of my basement walls, and if code in your area requires the same than you’re going to want some things: 1) Pressure-treated plate (duh!) Since I want to insulate with XPS before framing, and especially since that will put my walls further out from the block anyway, I assume I should remove the existing outlets and wiring from the block walls … Make sure the bottom is level with the bottom of the furring drop on the other side of the duct as shown in the drawing. by Saxe Point » Tue Aug 06, 2013 10:57 pm, Post If you’re building a wall … it's not faster or cheaper than installing traditional 2x3 (2x4) walls; it saves you maybe 1/2 inch per wall. However, I don’t think that fiberglass batts belong in a basement. How to Frame an Inside Wall Against a Concrete Wall. Yep, just screw a 2x4 to the wall wherever you want a shelf, however long. 2x4's make the whole thing look too bulky! Helping You to Do It Yourself! Is there a reason for me to tear those down and use 2x4's instead? Controlling moisture is the easiest way to eliminate mold in a basement. Insulating Basement Walls. Basement insulation is about 1/2 the R-value of above grade insulation values due to no wind, rain, or exposure because the ground/concrete wall buffers. Post Installing insulation on basement walls is often inexpensive, easy to accomplish and frequently combined with “finishing the basement.” ... Another option is to install one inch of XPS and then build a 2X3 or 2X4 frame wall just interior to the XPS. No fire issues - the decks on each floor block things. Or leave a basement wall weeping water and just notice what happens. I also live in Michigan. I am only finishing one side (13-4x39-5). horizontally. I would like to frame the wall (~4ft tall) with the 2x4s turned sideways (non conventional framing side). The walls would (in theory) need to support a gambrel style roof. Then install a piece of O.S.B. If I use 2x4's for the framing I am looking at at least 6 inches from the walls (2.5 for the styrofoam, and 3.5 for the 2x4's). Basement wall insulation also provides greater efficiency than insulating basement … And framing with 2x4 walls is fast, cheap, easy. This is why minimum code for your Michigan location is EITHER R-10 continuous, or R-13 (cavity)= see footnote "c" under Basement R-value; If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent. How to Frame an Inside Wall Against a Concrete Wall. the attic has 18" of cellulose . Yes, our free framing calculator computes the number of studs for you, but why do we use the 2x4 system at all? Instead of purchasing two layers of 1" XPS, I would probably go with 2". The wall is not cold to the touch as previously mentioned. Basically i'm sure the walls are built like that so that they hold the insulation that's the only reason. WI's Uniform Dwelling Code (UDC) Page 43 & 44 Section & Table SPS 321.25.A doesn't have the IBC's utility stud stipulation. The walls ended up perfectly flat, & stayed … Calculate the Studs. My advice: if you want a higher R-value, just install thicker rigid foam, and leave the stud bays empty." The other, not so surprising, thing we discovered is there was no insulation. Batt insulation insulates/stops the room heat from warming, hence lowering the dew-point because the foam is now colder. Insulation seals air leaks and provides consistent thermal resistance from cold walls. On flat, plumb walls, you can even glue&screw foam insulation to the concrete, then glue mold-resistant drywall to that. I am in the process of insulating and framing my basement. Use one of the suggested above and insulate the concrete wall. Favorite Answer. Framing Basement Walls With 2 215 3 On November 29, 2020 By Amik Basement windows definis sons basement finishing how to finish unled final cover basement finishing how to finish 2) Concrete nail gun and powder loads 3) Nails for the nail gun (duh!) Exactly what i am going to use. A 2x2 is good IF you attach it to the basement wall … Would this change much of what you are saying regarding the 2" foam and calling it at day? For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. http://www.buildingscience.com/docu...ion/files/bscinfo_511_basement_insulation.pdf, http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/icod/irc/2009/icod_irc_2009_11_sec002.htm, http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/reports/rr-0309-renovating-your-basment, http://www.epa.gov/athens/learn2model/part-two/onsite/ex/jne_henrys_map.html, http://www.soundfootings.com/pdf/US_Map_Frost_DepthAVG.pdf, http://www.quadlock.com/technical_library/bulletins/R-ETRO_Value_of_Basement_Insulation.pdf, http://www.sfgiowa.com/weather?map=us_soil_temps, http://michigan.stateguidesusa.com/...he-average-monthly-temperatures-in-michigan?/, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. I would still keep the stud center to … only or f.b. Hopefully the Roxul is not overkill with the 2 inch XPS. plus frame wall/batts. The foam board insulation serves as a vapor barrier between the cool concrete and warmer wood framing to prevent rot and mold from forming. A forum community dedicated to Do it yourself-ers and home improvement enthusiasts. If you want to save an inch or two (which you will never notice) then please frame in 2x3. If you are installing the wall over a basement concrete wall, install rigid foam board insulation on top of the concrete walls before framing the wall with 2x2s. Jim also had a great idea to create a half wall tying in the lally columns to create a visual separation between the tv space and the remaining part of the finished basement. It is just too flimsy and and warping with probably make it brittle. Most wall framing is done with 2x4 or 2x6 lumber, but it may be possible to use 2x3's to build a new, non-load bearing, interior wall. What you doing for subfloor? Do your local building codes still allow vapor barrier? We have some metal box outlets attached to the basement walls already. Utility grade studs are permitted for non-bearing walls … and I'm not adding any other insulation (Vancouver Island, so no real winter). Multiply the total wall length (in feet) by 0.75 (for 16-inch on-center stud spacing). I specifically chose 2x3 studs because they're plenty strong for this kind of shelving unit, while being a little less expensive than regular 2x4 studs, and a little lighter and easier to build. The first condensing surface- the inside face of the foamboard will be warmed by the room air. Building a Wall in Place. 2x3 lumber instead of 2x4 to frame basement? My roof is pretty small, but If I was building as big as you are, I'd probably use 2x4s … One builder is even looking to transition back over to 2x4. The poplar is stained dark walnut and attached … Is there a reason for me to tear those down and use 2x4's instead? 2x4 stands for a system using 2-inch-by-4-inch studs made out of wood, or steel. Behind the walls we discovered that the house had been framed using 2x3's. by Saxe Point » Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:25 am, Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited, All site content Copyright © 2009-var year=new Date(); year=year.getYear(); if (year<1900) year+=1900; document.write(year); House-Improvements.com, Ask your questions pertaining to the interior that don't fit in the above categories. This kind of wall is commonly found at Home Depot or Lowe’s, and is often referred to as light-gauge metal framing. My thoughts were to use R11 unfaced batt inside the cavity. One side of the 39'-5" room is actually a concrete bearing wall. To maximize my room size, I thought about using 2x3 instead of 2x4. No problem during construction, no problem now (2.5 years). This gives me all I need for R value (15) and now I am preparing to frame the stud walls for electrical and then drywall. You can use plywood instead of OSB, but you'll spend more on the shelves. I took everything they had. 2x3 lumber instead of 2x4 to frame basement? BuiLDPro68 -. I just bought a house built in the 1880's and gutted a couple of rooms. I ended up using 2x3's for the roof trusses to save weight, and still spaced them every 2 feet. 2x4 walls. The double wall flies up. This gives me all I need for R value (15) and now I am preparing to frame the stud walls for electrical and then drywall. Framing basement walls and ceilings is the core of any basement finishing project. Metal framing studs are used to support a non-load-bearing wall. If using Utility Grade studs your wall can't be any taller than 10' & your studs (2x3's or 2x4's) must be no more than 16"oc. Therefore, 24"oc is fine if your wall is no more than 14' tall for 2x4's. The longest outside wall of the basement is above ground since its a walk-out basement. if we build again.. the walls will either be Mooney wall … You make some good points. My new home has half the walls in the basement as 2x3's with insulation. I agree that 2x4's are the std for these walls, but I've used 2x3's with a 1x6 horizontal stiff leg before, with excellent results. … The vertical 2x4's are placed on the side of the front corners of the shelf system. I went to Lowes today and got them to do a price match of a Menards sale. It separates both sides of the house. Basically i'm sure the walls are built like that so that they hold the insulation that's the only reason. this one has a double wall exterior.. (2x4 @ 16" oc outside... a one inch airspace... and 2x3 @ 16" inside.... the full basement is insulated on the walls and has 2" of foam under the slab. Masonry walls like concrete tend to be damp, dreary and unpleasant. I just can't believe someone … Using the two 3 inch long screws at each connection point, you screw through the vertical 2x4's into the horizontal 2x3's.